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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. However, tucked high among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.